Lapped Seams | Top-Stitching & Tagging | Solid Seams | Steps 5-8

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Here we are on Day 4 of the Pavlova Wrap Top 30 Minutes a Day Sewalong!  Today, we’ll be tackling the trickiest bit of sewing in the pattern- the neck band.  While today’s sewing is perhaps quite different from other sewing you might have done in the past, it’s not too hard if you just take a breath and do it.


Part of the fun of sewing (at least to me) is learning new and different ways to put fabric together to make a wearable 3D sculpture.  Sometimes you won’t understand what a step says no matter how many times you read it.  You won’t be able to visualize it.  Sometimes it’s best to put your hands in the fabric and read as you go.   This is perhaps one of those times.

Wording in Step 5

Picture 1

No other word works for this step besides “finesse.”  This is a time to use your dressmaker’s fingertips to convince the fabric to do your will.  This shouldn’t involve any rough treatment or stretching, but a gentle persuasion may be necessary.

Look at the picture.  We spent much time sending edits back and forth to get this illustration just right.  It is 100% correct.  Note the position of the dot.  This is where your dot should be.  Next to it, the text says “Stitch to the dot…” when it should say “stitch toward the dot…”  The far right side of B (in the picture) should just barely cover the slash you made.  If not, then finesse the fabric until B does cover it.

Lapped Seams

Lapped seams are found often in vintage sewing patterns, and they’re handy because they allow for the creation of shaped seams.  In working up the Pavlova Wrap Top, I tried to remove the lapped seam in favor of any number of other treatments.  None worked as well so I thought to myself “Well, well, let’s lap.”  Click here for a detailed visual reference for the lapped neck seam.

Once you try it, you’ll see it’s not terribly difficult.

Top-Stitching & Tagging

If you prefer to wait and top-stitch all seams and hems at the end, then baste the seam in Step 6c rather than stitching it.

Alternatively, you can use fusible webbing along the wrong side of the folded edge of B to secure the seam.  This is what I do, and it works very well.

Aqua Blue Linen Crinkle Pavlova

Do you like my lace tag?  Now is not the time to fold the neck band over (as shown), but if you want to use a little loop of lace or ribbon to mark the back neck and tag your work, then baste it in now at the CB of the neck seam.  Click here for more on tagging.

Anatomy of a Solid Seam (for steps 7 & 8)

Anatomy of a Solid Seam feature2

Beginners, this page is for you because I want to help you avoid making a lot of the mistakes I made when I first started sewing.  It’s a microscopic take on sewing a basic seam.  If you’ve never sewn before, or if you’re self taught and open to picking up tips, then do visit the Anatomy of a Solid Seam visual reference, and then go play with your machine!

Beginners, if you have problems at all, at all, please let us know here or in the flickr group.

Flickr Assignment: Can we see your lapped seam?  Please?  Pretty please?

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